Chicago Neighborhoods: Ukrainian Village

One of the most distinct areas of Chicago, Ukrainian Village is a unique neighborhood located along Chicago Avenue. Ukrainian Village neighborhood with East Village, Wicker Park, Noble Square, and Eckhart Park, create the community known as West Town.

Despite the gentrification happening both in and around Ukrainian Village, its estimated 10,000 Ukrainian-American residents keep their culture alive and strong. The domed Orthodox churches, along with the Ukrainian National Museum and other institutions preserve this neighborhood’s unique heritage. Ukrainian Village and East Village together make up the larger West Town community area, where quiet tree-lined streets and plentiful shopping and dining amenities make them ideal residential neighborhoods.

Adamcio’s church is in Ukrainian Village. His neighborhood and East Village next door, both part of the West Town community, share Division Street.

Algren, who grew up in Chicago and lived around here for a time, wrote about it often — and not gently. He died on Long Island in 1981 and wouldn’t believe what’s here now. Mike Royko, the acerbic, often hilarious Pulitzer Prize columnist for three Chicago newspapers who grew up here and spiritually never left the old neighborhood until he died in 1997, would probably be aghast.

Royko’s Division Street was sausage-makers, casually corrupt politicians and shot-and-a-beer saloons frequented by men who enjoyed them frequently.

“There are still Division Street bars,” he wrote in 1966, “that tap a full barrel every time another customer walks in.”

There still are bars on Division Street — plenty of them — but at, say, the Milk & Honey Cafe, the customer probably would be satisfied with a glass of pinot grigio with his, or her, ham and caraway havarti sandwich.

“That little petit-larceny punk from Division and Damen” Algren wrote about? Gone. Division and Damen now means Jazz Sundays at Jerry’s.

If there is a constant, a link to that other time, it’s the churches.

St. George Orthodox Church, on Wood Street in East Village, still serves Russian immigrants, even if most don’t live so close anymore. In Ukrainian Village, three Orthodox churches — St. Volodymyr, St. Nicholas (which has 13 onion domes) and the oldest, Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral — offer comfort to what remains a largely Ukrainian-Slavic community, even if the ratio of Ukrainians and Russians to Poles has tilted a bit toward Warsaw.

Holy Trinity, by far smallest of the three, was designed in 1902 by the great Louis Sullivan and dedicated a year later. The church, on Leavitt Street just south of Division, it is the only church he designed alone and that conformed to his specifications. (St. Paul’s Church in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, a later design, didn’t.)

The exterior, inspired by a small Siberian church, is splendid. The interior, sunlight softened by Sullivan-design stained glass yet capable of making the royal doors explode in golden brilliance, is something to behold.

Sullivan also donated the fine chandelier, believed to be the work of the renowned stained-glass artist Louis Millet. Visitors are welcome; call ahead, or check at the rectory next door.

And if you do stop by, don’t ignore the houses. Much of Ukrainian Village has been designated a Chicago Landmark for its residential architecture; if you see Holy Trinity, explore the surrounding blocks as well — especially Haddon Avenue and Thomas and Cortez Streets from Leavitt to Damen.

A few Ukrainian restaurants remain in Ukrainian Village. Old Lviv, a buffet-style diner on Chicago Avenue west of Leavitt, is one. If borscht isn’t on your must-try list, more familiar cuisine — like the best bars and the best little shops — is mostly along Division Street, much of that in East Village (that’s east of Damen), where on summer nights the food and fun spill into a succession of outdoor patios. Of the old-timey bars, the Rainbo Club, on Damen just south of Division, is sufficiently divey that it might be refreshingly tolerable to Algren or Royko.

The more trendy might be drawn to Jerry’s, The Boundary or Division Ale House, all on Division near Damen — or they might be content to just patio-hop down Division.

Restaurants tend toward burgers and bar snacks, though Via Carducci La Sorella, back around Jerry’s and The Boundary, takes its Italian cooking seriously. The tailored slickness stops at Ashland, but Mariscos El Veneno, on Ashland near Augusta Boulevard, and El Barco, across the street on Ashland, can satisfy cravings for Mexican seafood.

Location & Area

North Boundary: 1200 N Division
South Boundary: 500 N Grand
East Boundary: 2000 W Damen
West Boundary: 2400 W Western
Primary Zip Code: 60622

Current Trends and Facts of Ukrainian Village Chicago

With trendy Wicker Park nearby, residents have immediate access to dozens of spectacular restaurants, eclectic boutiques and art galleries. Ukrainian Village neighborhood residents also have an excellent, 10-minute ride to the Loop and an easy commute to O’Hare via the CTA’s Blue Line.


Corbett vs. Dempsey

  • Art & Architecture

Corbett vs. Dempsey is a private art gallery specializing in mid-20th century American art, with an emphasis on Chicago painting and works on paper from 1940 to 1970. Accessibility limitations. Please contact site for further information.

Free Admission | 1120 N. Ashland Ave. | 773.278.1664

Empty Bottle

  • Music

Experience music 7 days a week at the Empty Bottle, featuring everything from Anti-pop Consortium to Trans Am, the indie-rock, electronic, experimental, jazz; post-this and pre-that.

1035 N. Western Ave. | 773-276-3600

Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral

  • Art & Architecture

An official City of Chicago Landmark and on the National Register of Historic Places, Holy Trinity Cathedral (consecrated in 1903) was designed by Louis Sullivan in a Russian style. Accessibility limitations. Please contact site for further information.

Free Admission | 1121 N. Leavitt St. | 773.486.6064

Monique Meloche Gallery

  • Art & Architecture

In its newest location, Monique Meloche continues to feature emerging artists in all media, from all nations. The new space seeks to present conceptually challenging installations.

Free Admission | 2154 W. Division St. | 773.252.0299

Murals (in Pulaski Park Field House)

  • Art & Architecture

There are two murals in the Pulaski Park Field House. One is an allegoral mural above the proscenium painted by James G.Gilbert in 1920. The other one, which portrays Polish themes, was painted in the 1930s.

Free Admission | 1419 W. Blackhawk St. | 312.742.PLAY (7529)

Redmoon Theater

  • Theater & Dance

Redmoon creates theatrical spectacles that transform streets, stages, and architectural landmarks into places of public celebration utilizing a physical language capable of speaking across cultural, ethnic, and generational boundaries. Redmoon Theater performs throughout the city, but their home is Redmoon Central, a huge warehouse on the west side of Chicago.

1463 W. Hubbard St | 312.850.8440, ext. 111

Saint George Cathedral

  • Religious locations

St. George Cathedral is an Orthodox church of Russian background built in 1934. The detailed iconography in this beautiful sacred place imparts a spirit of peace to many a visitor. Accessibility limitations. Please contact site for further information.

Free Admission | 917 N. Wood St. | 312.666.5179

St Nicholas Ukrainian Catholic Cathedral

  • Religious locations

Modeled after the eleventh century cathedral St. Sophia of Kyiv, Ukraine, St Nicholas is a fine example of Neo-Byzantine architecture. The church offers weekly services in Ukrainian or English.

Free Admission | 835 N. Oakley Blvd. | 773.276.4537

St. Volodymyr Ukrainian Orthodox Church

  • Religious locations

Built in 1911 as a Lutheran church, St. Volodymyr differs from traditional Orthodox churches in that it faces North rather than East, and is without a dome. The cathedral, nonetheless, features traditional interior iconography and an elegant iconostasis.

Free Admission | 2250 W. Cortez St. | 773.278.2827

Ukrainian Institute of Modern Art

  • Art & Architecture,
  • Museums & Zoos

Take in abstract and minimalist work by established, Ukrainian and Ukrainian American artists at the Ukrainian Institute of Modern Art.

2320 W. Chicago Ave. | 773.227.5522

Ukrainian National Museum

  • Museums & Zoos

The Ukrainian National Museum of Chicago details the heritage, culture and people of Ukraine.

2249 W. Superior St. | 312. 421.8020

Ukrainian Village District

  • Historical Landmarks

The Ukrainian Village District contains an excellent cross-section of residential building types that provide a visual history of immigration settlement on Chicago’s Near West Side. These unpretentious residences feature distinguished workmanship and finely crafted details.

Free Admission | N. Damen Ave. & W. Haddon Ave.


Alliance Poultry Farm Market

  • Other

The number one outlet in Chicago for live poultry, Alliance has chickens, rabbits, ducks, turkeys, pigeons, geese, fish, and country fresh farm eggs.

1636 W. Chicago Ave. | 312.829.1458

Barista Coffee House

  • Dining

This friendly local coffee house has free wi-fi, a monthly featured artist, a board game area and twice monthly poetry readings. Accessibility limitations.

852 N. Damen Ave. | 773.489.2010

Caffé Gelato

  • Food Retail: Desserts

Closely resembling a real Italian gelateria, Caffe Gelato offers a wide assortment of gelato flavors, including favorites such as pistachio, tiramisu and chocolate chip. It also features a coffee bar that roasts its coffee daily and outdoor seating.

2034 W. Division St. | 773.227.7333

Café Ballou

  • Sandwiches

This bright and energetic café serves traditional Turkish coffee. The coffee, plus the comfy couches, free Wi-Fi access, and rotating art display bring in a variety of patrons, from the twenty-somethings moving into the area to the longtime Ukrainian and Polish residents.

939 N. Western Ave. | 773.342.2909


  • Middle Eastern

This authentic Palestinian café serves a variety of familiar Middle Eastern fare in a hip dining room lined with imported posters of American films and products with Arabic text.

2018 W. Chicago Ave. | 773.384.9930


  • American (Traditional)

A great neighborhood bar, Cleo’s offers a good selection of beers and daily food specials, including a free Saturday night buffet, and outdoor seating in the warm months. Accessibility limitations.

1935 W. Chicago Ave. | 312.243.5600

Coffee and Sweets on Division Street

  • Food Retail: Bakeries

rab a pastry to go or sit and enjoy a cup of coffee at Alliance Bakery (1736 W. Division St.), known for their specialty cakes and cupcakes or stop in Letizia’s Natural Bakery (2144 W. Division St.), which prides itself in using 100% sweet butter in all its homemade, all-natural muffins, cookies and pastries. Accessibility limitations at some sites. Please contact sites for more information.

2144 W. Division St.


  • Bar

Combining two of the owner’s passions, photography and cocktails, Darkroom is both a great place to grab a drink as well as to view the work of up and coming photographers.

2210 W. Chicago Ave. | 773.276.1411

Division Street Nightlife

  • Bar

Division Street is a hot spot for nightlife and many places to enjoy an adult beverage including Phyllis’ Musical Inn (1800 W. Division St.), Inn Joy (2051 W. Division St.), and Small Bar (2059 W. Division St.). Accessibility limitations at some sites. Please contact sites for more information.

1942 W. Division St.

El Barco

  • Mexican

Rick Gutierrez’s El Barco exposes Chicago to ‘real’ Mexican maritime cuisine. The enormous menu boasts a bevy of entrees with shrimp, red snapper, crab, and octopus as their main ingredients.

1035 N. Ashland Ave. | 773.486.6850

Filichia’s Food & Imports

  • Delis

Filichia’s is an Italian deli and gourmet grocery store, selling homemade and imported pasta, sauces, coffee, and desserts. The deli serves pasta, salads, and sandwiches with quaint seating available.

959 N. Western Ave. | 773.697.8061

Global Dining on Division Street

  • Dining

Discover cuisines from all over the world on this stretch of Division Street including Mexican at Adobo Grill (2005 W. Division St.) and Angels and Mariachis (1721 W. Division St.); Argentinean at Folklore (2100 W. Division St.); Japanese at Bob San Sushi (1805 W. Division St.); and Thai at Thai Village (2053 W. Division St.).

1024 N. Ashland Ave.

Hoosier Mama Pie Company

  • Food Retail: Bakeries

Stop in an try a slice of pie at the Hoosier Mama Pie Company, a new artisanal bakery striving to be a great “old” pie company. They make their pies by hand with the best ingredients they can find.

1418 1/2 W. Chicago Ave. | 312.243.4846


  • American (New)

This upscale breakfast and lunch spot with an evening tasting menu has clean, modern decor. The menu features creative takes on familiar favorites, including chocolate pancakes with toasted marshmallow and graham cracker crumble. Accessibility limitations.

937 N. Damen Ave. | 773.489.0302


  • American (Traditional)

Jerry’s offers in excess of 100 sandwiches, a large collection of daily specials, and more than 70 ingredients for assembling custom sandwiches. They also boast a collection of over 180 American craft beers, both in bottle and on draft.

1938 W. Division St. | 773.235.1006


  • Polish

Kasia first opened her deli in 1982, serving authentic Polish home cooking. In the ensuing years, her pierogi were called the “best pierogi in Chicago” and are now sold in supermarkets throughout the country. Accessibility limitations.

2101 W. Chicago Ave. | 773.486.6163

La Pasadita

  • Mexican

La Pasadita Restaurant and Taqueria has three restaurants on the same street block. Family owned and operated since 1976, La Pasadita is best known for its mouth watering tacos and burritos. Over 3,500 tacos are served daily to customers waiting in lines which most of the time extend outside. Accessibility limitations.

1108 N. Ashland Ave. | 773.278.4886

Late Night Eats & Drinks on Division Street

  • Bar

Enjoy great late night burgers and drinks at the Boundary (1932 W. Division St.), Division Ale House (1942 W. Division St.), Moonshine (1824 W. Division St.), and the Fifty/50 (2047 W. Division St.). Accessibility limitations at some sites. Please contact sites for more information.

1932 W. Division St.

MANA food bar

  • American (New)

This small vegetarian restaurant has received praise in numerous Chicago media outlets, including Time Out Chicago and the Chicago Sun-Times, for its globally-inspired meatless menu. Try their small plates for a great sharing experience.

1742 W. Division St. | 773.342.1742

Mexican Seafood on Ashland Avenue

  • Seafood

Find delicious Mexican seafood on Ashland Avenue in the East Village. Enjoy specialties like shrimp tacos and red snapper at Mariscos El Veneno (1024 N. Ashland Ave.) or sample crab and octopus at El Barco (1035 N. Ashland Ave.).

1024 N. Ashland Ave.

Milk & Honey Café

  • American (Traditional)

Milk & Honey Cafe first opened its doors for lunch in June of 2002 serving gourmet sandwiches, fresh salads, soups and house baked pastries made from scratch. The café now serves breakfast and lunch seven days a week. Make sure to try out their homemade granola, sold in specialty food stores around the city.

1920 W. Division St. | 773.395.9434

Mirai Sushi

  • Sushi Bars

This hip, upscale sushi bar serves epicurean Japanese dishes and features a second-floor lounge and bar. Mirai’s sleek interior and dim lighting make it a great date spot. Dining reservations are recommended.

2020 W. Division St. | 773.862.8500

Mr. Brown’s Lounge

  • Caribbean

Mr. Brown’s Lounge is a Jamaican-themed bar and restaurant features live reggae music and authentic cuisine. Trendy decor and low lighting make this an up and coming night spot in the neighborhood.

2301 W. Chicago Ave. | 773.278.4445

Nightlife on Western Avenue

  • Bar

Enjoy drinks with friends at neighborhood favorites like Stella’s (935 N. Western Ave.), The Blind Robin (835 N. Western Ave.), and Lockdown Bar (1024 N. Western Ave.).

1024 N. Western Ave.

Old Oak Tap

  • American (New)

This modern bar and bistro has a clean rustic feel, serving comfort food with creative spins and at reasonable prices. A great place to “be seen” in Ukrainian Village.

2109 W. Chicago Ave. | 773.772.0406

Rainbo Club

  • Bar

Opened in 1936, Rainbo Club is the established Ukrainian Village neighborhood bar. Yet, its eclectic mix of music, inviting booths, and inexpensive beer selection bring in a variety of clientele not limited to locals only.

1150 N. Damen Ave. | 773.489.5999

Sabor Saveur

  • Mexican

Chef Yanitzin Sanchez mixes new tastes and trends from Mexico and Europe to excite the palettes of adventurous Chicago diners. The sleek and austere dining room is meant to evoke the feel of an art gallery.

2013 W. Division St. | 773.235.7310

Smoke Daddy

  • American (Traditional)

Open since the summer of 1994, Smoke Daddy offers barbeque and free live music seven days a week. Over the years, Smoke Daddy has appeared on the Food Network several times, and has been called “Chicago’s best barbecue” by numerous local and national periodicals.

1804 W. Division St. | 773.772.MOJO (6656)

Tecalitlan Restaurant

  • Mexican

Rated one of the top Mexican restaurants in the city by Time Out Chicago and the Chicago Tribune, Tecalitlan is a place to bring the family for dinner or a great place to enjoy drinks with friends.

1814 W. Chicago Ave. | 773.384.4285

Ukrainian Cuisine in the Ukrainian and East Village

  • Ukrainian

Stop in one of several restaurants in the Ukrainian Village for its delicious namesake cuisine including Cafe Zori (912 N. Western Ave.), Andrezj Grill (1022 N. Western Ave.), Ukrania Deli (2304 W. Chicago Ave.), and Old Lviv (2228 W. Chicago Ave.). Accessibility limitations at some sites. Please contact sites for more information.

912 N. Western Ave.

Via Carducci La Sorella

  • Italian

This place will take you straight to Italy with its rustic Italian cuisine & decor. Enjoy their wide offerings of Southern Italian wines and seafood specialies made with the traditional Mediterranean recipes.

1928 W. Division St. | 773.252.2244


A Vision

  • Florist

This chic wine shop, offering hand-selected, reasonably priced bottles, is also a florist that creates fabulous gift and wedding arrangements. Friday night free wine tastings are a Ukrainian Village hit.

910 N. Damen Ave. | 773.227.5700

Agent Gallery Chicago

  • Antiques

Agent Gallery sells a collection of unique industrial antiques. The selection often varies, but a few items have included 1930s glass funnels and a 1950s drafting table. The gallery also features exhibitions by emerging and mid-career artists from the US and overseas. Accessibility limitations.

916 N. Damen Ave. | 312.498.6818

Alcala’s Western Wear

  • Fashion

Founded by Luis Alcala in 1972, Alcala’s Western Wear lassos more boot sales than anyone else in Chicago and has become one of the largest retailers of Western wear in the Midwest. Step inside and be wowed by 5,000 hats and 10,000 pairs of boots in your sights.

1733 W. Chicago Ave. | 312.226.0152


  • Arts & Crafts

Beadniks, an activity-based jewelry boutique, is where you’ll find unique gift ideas and jewelry trends, as well as a special location for parties and events. Become inspired by their wide selection of beads and semi-precious stones, hand-selected from the far corners of the globe. Designers are always on hand to assist you with your personal look.

1937 W. Division St. | 773.276.BEAD (2323)


  • Fashion

One of Chicago’s premier luxury lifestyle boutiques, Bonnie&Clyde;’s serves as a conduit for new art, fashion, music and culture from Chicago and beyond. Project Runway fans will be excited to find designs by winners Christian Siriano and Jeffrey Sebelia, as well as fashion icons like Vivienne Westwood and Rick Owens.

1751 W. Division St. | 773.235.2680

Cards and Gifts on Division Street

  • Shopping

You’ll find the perfect, distinctive gift and a unique card to go with it and one of several independently-owned shops on Division Street. Try Paper Doll (2048 W. Division St.) for a playful cavalcade of hand-picked gifts, indie design greeting cards, and one-of-a-kind treasures; Elevenzees (1901 W. Division St.) for an incredible inventory ranging from gifts for home to baby and soul-soothing essentials; Greenheart (1911 W. Division St.) for recycled accessories and handbags, home goods, jewelry, toys, organic cotton t-shirts and more; or Anjenu (1747 W. Division St.) for beautiful stationary, greeting cards and wrapping paper.

1901 W. Division St.

Children’s Shopping on Division Street

  • Children’s Clothing

Shop Division Street for children’s clothing and toys. Visit Threadless (1905 W. Division St.) for artist-made tees; Grow (1943 W. Division St.) for pint-size clothing, gear and furniture with a modern twist; Bullfrogs and Butterflies (2124 W. Division St.), a “children’s lifestyle store” specializing in toys, books, clothing, shoes and accessories; and Building Blocks (2130 W. Division St.), which features products which promote mental, physical and social childhood development. Accessibility limitations at some sites. Please contact sites for more information.

1905 W. Division St.

Dusty Groove America

  • Books, Mags, Music & Video

Specializing in jazz, funk and soul, this record store is known worldwide for being one of the best places to buy vinyl.

1120 N. Ashland Ave. | 773.342.5800

Event Studio

  • Shopping

Although co-owners Myca Smith and Stephanie Hlinak primarily specialize in event planning, they also offer a boutique featuring hostess gifts, stationery, lotion and soap, and home accessories.

2027 W. Division St. | 773.227.1122


  • Fashion

This vintage store is focused on 80s, 90s and fashion-forward pieces. It features artwork from local artists and some clothing designed by local independent designers. Accessibility limitations.

1112 N. Ashland Ave. | 773.252.6996

More Shopping

  • Shopping

For more shopping options, visit the Wicker Park Bucktown Chamber of Commerce (1414 N. Ashland Ave.).

1414 N. Ashland Ave.

Nina: a well-knit shop

  • Arts & Crafts

Nina is a contemporary knitting shop known for offering a carefully selected line of beautifully displayed specialty products. You can even take a class in this sleek, calm space described as a Zen temple to fiber.

1655 W. Division St. | 773.486.8996

Permanent Records

  • Books, Mags, Music & Video

Permanent Records carries popular and hard-to-find music and provides an important service for the community by exposing people to music they would not hear otherwise.

1914 W. Chicago Ave. | 773.278.1744

Pump Shoes & Accessories

  • Shoe Stores

Pump is an independently owned and operated women’s shoe and accessory boutique specializing in trendy styles and brands like Charles Davis, Sam Edelman, Jeffery Campbell and Kelsi Dagger. Accessibility limitations.

1659 W. Division St. | 773.384.6750

Renegade Handmade

  • Gifts and Souvenirs

Renegade Handmade is a unique one-stop shop for DIY goods, featuring the work of over 300 artists! Created as an extension of the Renegade Craft Fair, the store serves as a permanent location for people to buy and sell unique handmade items year-round. Accessibility limitations.

1924 W. Division St. | 773.227.2707

Ruby Room

  • Beauty and Spas

Featured on E!, CNN, and in The New York Times, W Magazine and Chicago Magazine, this salon and health spa also has eight overnight rooms with goose down pillow-top mattresses and access to a secluded “healing garden” with waterfall.

1743 W. Division St. | 773.235.2323

Very Best Vintage

  • Fashion

A friendly, well-organized boutique that makes finding that perfect vintage outfit fun with a great selection of dresses.

1919 W. Chicago Ave. | 312.226.5530

Vigilante Press

  • Comic Books

Vigilante Press carries a wide range of comics and toys for kids of all ages. Come to an artist signing or a movie night at this excellent shop.

1931 W. Chicago Ave. | 312.423.6774

Women’s Fashion Boutiques on Division Street

  • Fashion

Women will find the latest trends in fashion at numerous boutiques on Division Street. Check out Ouest (1751 W. Division St.), a high end boutique with designer wares; Anastasia Chatzka (1740 W. Division St.), home to the innovative Chicago designer; and Mulberry & Me (2019 W. Division St.), for contemporary women’s apparel for any occasion. Accessibility limitations at some sites. Please contact sites for more information.

1919 W. Division St.

le Dress

  • Fashion

Chicago’s premier dress-only boutique was featured in the September 2009 issue of Marie Claire magazine and has won awards at the Chicago Battle of the Boutiques.

1741 W. Division St. | 773.697.9899


Wicker Park & Ukrainian Village

  • Bus,
  • Walking

Take this Chicago Neighborhood Tour to see how diverse groups shaped the character of these vibrant West Side communities into two of Chicago’s hottest neighborhoods to live and play in.

77 E. Randolph St. | 312.742.1190 (TTY: 312.744.2947)